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OUTDOOR SYNTHETIC LANDSCAPE GRASS / TURF
Use this installation & maintenance
guide for the following products:
| EAN (Barcode) |
Product |
Colour |
Size |
| |
|
|
|
|
9324223001080 |
LANDSCAPE 2 |
SPRING
GREEN |
1.80m |
|
9324223001110 |
LAWN 2 |
LUSH GREEN |
1.80m |
Read all these
instructions fully before proceeding, thankyou.
Installation
Instructions in pdf format -
download
The Weather:
Try to plan the installation for when the weather will be relatively stable and
dry for 2 days with a preferred outdoor temperature of 18 - 25°C. Outdoor
installations need to be carried out on dry warm days as:-
 |
The adhesive for Cross Joins and Seams requires 24 hours of
good conditions to cure completely. |
|
the washed white sand is also best kept dry so it can be
spread more easily. |
Conditioning:
For a period of 24 hours prior to commencing the installation, the LANDSCAPE
grass and required adhesive should be kept dry and stored under cover at
temperatures of 18 - 25°C. If the LANDSCAPE grass is at the recommended
temperatures, it should take approx 40 minutes for any folds to relax and
flatten out after it is rolled out.
Note: Below 15ºC, LANDSCAPE grass will be quite stiff, retaining folds /creases,
and cold adhesive will not perform correctly.
Make a Plan:
Make a plan of your installation area to scale, preferably on graph paper or
maybe using a CAD type computer software package. It is then necessary to
determine the quantity of grass to cover the area and the direction the sheet(s)
should run. You can overlay a 1.8m wide scaled grid on the plan representing the
direction sheets of LANDSCAPE grass could be installed so that you can determine
the way of best fit / least waste.
LANDSCAPE grass 1.8m wide
|
Area width |
|
Area length |
|
Total area sqm = Area length x Area width |
|
Total area sqm. divided by1.8m = approx. lineal metres of
LANDSCAPE grass. |
Plan your area so that :-
|
all LANDSCAPE
grass sheets run in the same direction (mark the back of the roll with
directional arrows before you cut any lengths). |
|
sheet
seams do not run down the length of high traffic corridors / walkways.
|
|
use
lengths with Cross Joins in low traffic areas (e.g. sheets D+E ).
|
|
allow that
approx 5cm runs up or over each wall, edging or fixture (the carpet can be
trimmed back
once it is fixed in place and has stabilised). |
LANDSCAPE grass is made from synthetic fibres that will contract in cold
conditions and loosen / relax in hot conditions - eg. if installed in summer do
not cut in the edges too neatly as the grass will contract slightly in winter,
allow an extra 2 - 3cm per 10m in length on all sides in a summer installation.
Example: In this plan, there are 4 runs of LANDSCAPE Grass across the garden
area.
Tools may include: -
a shovel, metal head garden rake, weighted garden roller, 8m tape measure, sharp
utility knife (new blades), stick of chalk, adhesive trowel with 3mm notches,
metal straight edge, 2 pieces of 1200 x 45 x 6mm plywood /mdf for a cutting
/seaming board, a small dust pan brush, hammer, a wheel barrow, large sand sieve
and a stiff bristled garden broom.
LANDSCAPE Grass:
Is available in rolls 1.8m in width and a new full roll is normally 10m (32.5
ft) in length and covers 18 sqm (195 sq.ft). If you have a large area requiring
more grass than is in one roll please ensure your supplier orders sufficient
material from the one colour batch.
Sub Soil Preparation
LANDSCAPE grass can be installed over virtually any soil type.
However, all sub soils should be levelled and compacted so hollows won’t form
later.
Compacting the sub soil can involve the following steps:
|
Remove all existing grass and any on the surface tree / plant
roots. |
|
Use a shovel and metal head garden rake to level off the
soiled area and create a drainage gradient (eg. 10cm/3m) away from
buildings/ paved areas. |
|
If possible wet the subsoil really well to assist compacting
very loose dusty soil. |
|
Use a garden roller, mechanical vibrating compacting machine
or lots of closely placed foot steps back and forth to pack down the
soil. |
|
Check that the rises and hollows have been eliminated. |
|
The subsoil has to be at least 10cm thick after compacting.
|
After the subsoil has been well compacted, we recommend it be covered with a 5mm
– 10mm layer of Bluestone rock ‘Crush a Dust’ and then compacted again. The
Crush a Dust packs down well giving a “crust like” layer over the sub-soil and
reduces the likely hood of loose subsoil being moved by runoff water action
under the LANDSCAPE grass. Alternatively, use very fine crushed gravel or
washed white sand.
Sand Fill
LANDSCAPE grass is designed to be filled with dry washed white sand to a depth
of approximately 10mm after the installation area has been fully laid out, edges
trimmed and the body and perimeter anchored down.
The sand fill assists in:
|
Keeping the sheets of grass weighted down and in position |
|
The grass fibres standing upright |
|
Improves drainage in heavy rain periods |
|
Reduces UV exposure to the base of the fibres
|
Dry washed white sand is best applied in the following method:
|
First complete all trimming, application of pin anchors
and perimeter fixing. |
|
Start in the middle of the area and work outwards to the
perimeter. |
|
Do not dump a pile of sand on the grass as this will crush
and bury the fibres. |
|
The sand should be applied in about 3 – 4 layers, not all at
once. |
|
Cast the sand by hand or use a large sieve, work on a 2 sqm.
area at a time. |
|
After each application of sand use a yard broom sweeping more
against the natural pile direction of the fibres, in this way the sand will
settle to the base and assist in keeping the fibres upright.
|
|
You have applied enough sand once you can still see
about 15mm – 18mm of the Landscape fibres. |
Note 1: If the sand is wet when applied, it will clump together and not settle /
fall down in to the base of the fibres.
Note 2: 1/2 cubic meter of sand should cover 50 sqm to a depth of 10mm.
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Main Body area
|
|
|
150mm galvanised Weed Mat pins, long
’U‘ shape,
bar code 9312261143008. |
|
150mm galvanised Irrigation Pins, long ‘U‘ shape,
bar code 9312261143008 |
|
|
-
Main Body area
|
|
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150mm galvanised flat head nails barcode 9311424154653 |
|
 |
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Main
body area - over loose sandy / loam subsoil
|
|
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200mm long galvanised heavy duty Irrigation Pins (hooked) bar
code 9312261143152. |
|
It is also possible to make your own ‘U’ pins by
using 4mm galvanised rolled wire bent hard over a piece of
20mm hardwood and flattening the top with a knock from a hammer. |
|
 |
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Perimeter
|
|
Painted looped wire Garden Border Fence sections
with 200mm base spikes.
|
176 x 55cm bar code 9317807126835 or
|
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179 x 76cm bar code 9317807126842 |
|
 |
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Perimeter
|
|
Treated pine half round splits:
|
either 75 or |
|
100mm diameter, |
and galvanised flat head clouts 30mm.
|
 |
-
Perimeter
|
|
Treated pine 90 x 45mm rectangular rough sawn timber
and galvanised flat head clouts 30mm.
|
 |
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Perimeter
|
|
Garden rockery stones can be placed over the outer
edge of the LANDSCAPE grass.
|
 |
-
Perimeter
|
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Garden retaining wall of timber sleepers placed over the outer edge
of the LANDSCAPE grass.
|
 |
Adhesive and Seaming Ribbon: -
We recommend that adhesive be used to lengthen one sheet by the addition of a
second sheet. In this case, the join is known as a Cross Join and we recommend
the use of an outdoor Synthetic Turf / Grass adhesive (eg. Bostik Synthetic Turf
adhesive - item code 293946 4L) or for a short length Cross Join use a
Contact adhesive (eg. Bostik Instant Pro Skirting Board adhesive item code
293989 1L). It will also be necessary to use a quantity of weed control matting
(which is made from woven black polypropylene) cut into 20cm wide strips for a
“Seaming Ribbon” onto which the adhesive will be spread.
Note: When using a 3mm notched trowel to spread Synthetic Grass adhesive, 1L
will cover approx 3 sq.m.
Cross Joins involve joining sheets end to end, across the 1.8m width of the
grass.
It is recommended to complete Cross Joins at least 24 hours before final
positioning of all the sheets of Landscape grass and doing side seams ( joining
parallel lengths ).
-
Ensure sheets 1a and 1b are marked clearly with “face pile”
directional arrows on the black back of the sheets.
-
Lay out sheet 1a face down.
-
Lay out sheet 1b face down, ensuring 1b has the “face pile”
directional arrows running in the same direction as sheet 1a. Determine if
the ends to be joined of sheet 1a and 1b are straight /square and will give
a good close seam.
If not proceed to 1d, if straight/square proceed to 1e.
-
To trim the end to be joined on sheet 1a & 1b straight and
square, use the pre- punched water drainage holes visible in the black
backing of the grass as a guide for your straight edge. Ensure you have
fitted a new blade to your utility knife. Using your utility knife and the
straight edge aligned parallel to the water drainage holes, gently cut along
the back of the grass so you only just cut the black backing, not the grass
fibres. Butt the ends to be joined together to ensure the join will be
relatively tight. There should not be more that a 3-4mm gap between each cut
end along the length of the seam.
-
With two straight /square edges ready, now lay sheets 1a &
1b face up ensuring the “face pile” of each sheet is running in the same
direction and the correct edges are butted together.
-
It is now necessary to make a piece of “seaming ribbon” 20cm
wide and 2m long. Cut the material from the woven black PP Weed Control
matting. This material is best cut with a new blade in your utility knife
or some very sharp scissors.
-
Fold back approx 30cm of each of the edges of the Cross Join
sheets so there is an opening of 60 - 70cm and using the dust pan brush
clean off any dirt /sand from the up-turned backs of the LANDSCAPE grass.
-
In the open
area between the 2 folded back sheets of grass lay down end to end the two
cutting boards of 1200 x 45 x 6mm plywood/mdf. This will give a firm flat
surface on which to glue
the cross join.
-
Lay the
20cm wide piece of seaming tape on top of the cutting boards. Use the dust
pan brush to clean off any dirt /sand from the upper face of the seaming
ribbon.
-
Prepare
the fixing of the seam by spreading the Synthetic Grass adhesive with a 3mm
notched trowel in a 15cm wide path along the upper face of the seaming
ribbon. Follow the directions of the adhesive as to the required “open
time”.
-
Carefully proceed to fold down/lay the end of sheet 1a. on
to the first half of the adhesive covered
seaming
ribbon. Check you have
left half of the seaming ribbon for laying the end of sheet 1b. . Now
carefully press down on the grass surface of sheet 1a. so that the backing
is pressed well into the adhesive. Ensure you keep the grass fibres along
the edge out of the adhesive (immediately wipe adhesive off grass fibres).
-
Carefully proceed to fold down/lay the end of sheet 1b.
onto the remaining half of the adhesive covered seaming ribbon. Ensure there
is not more than a 3-4mm gap between the 2 ends of sheet 1a & 1b (while
the adhesive is still moist you can manoeuvre the LANDSCAPE grass on the
seaming ribbon). If the 2 ends are less than 3-4mm apart along the seam then
it should be very difficult to see the cross join at all. Now carefully use
the heal/flat of your hand to firmly push the back of 1b. into the adhesive
to get good contact. Ensure you keep the grass fibres along the cross join
edge out of the adhesive (immediately wipe adhesive off grass fibres).
-
Carefully work back and forth along the cross join seam at
least 2 more times pressing the backing of the grass down onto the adhesive
covered seaming ribbon.
-
The cross joined sheets will have to be left for at least 24
hours so the adhesive can set/cure before you attempt moving the joined
sheets to their final position. If the joined sheets are moved or walked on
before the adhesive is fully cured they will fail and pull apart. Just let
the adhesive take its time and fully set. Refer to the adhesive
manufacturer’s instructions for recommended curing times.
-
Carefully slide out the 2 cutting boards from beneath the
cross join and trim of excess seaming ribbon protruding past the width of
the grass sheet.
Seams run down the length of 2 adjoining sheets.
Rolls of LANDSCAPE Grass are usually supplied with 60mm of the ‘Black Backing
Flap’ still attached to one side of the sheet.
60mm Black Backing Flap
It is possible to use this 60mm Black Backing Flap to join 2 adjoining sheets
of LANDSCAPE grass together when installations are over outdoor soiled areas and
solid surfaces such as concrete, paving and asphalt.
Seams - Option 1. - Pin Down method
- light to medium trafficked areas.
It is possible to overlap the edge of the adjoining 2nd sheet onto the 60mm flap
of Black backing of the 1st sheet and use either the galvanised Weed Mat/
Irrigation Pins or galvanised Flat Head Nails passed through both sheets to
anchor the seam.
-
The galvanised Weed Mat/ Irrigation Pins or Flat Head Nails
should be placed every 30cm along the length of the seam being joined.
-
Before anchoring the seam first check that the edge of the
2nd sheet will butt up satisfactorily over the black backing selvedge along
the entire length of the 1st. sheet. There should be not more than a 3 –
4mm gap along the seam. If the gap is too big in places trim the 2nd sheets
edge if necessary (it is easiest to trim from the back of the grass sheet by
running your utility knife blade between 2 rows of tuft lines). After
trimming check again if the seam will be good and closed (not more than a 3
– 4mm gap).
-
Using a hammer tap in the anchoring pins you have selected so they pierce
the grass’s black backing and go fully into the sub soil. Make sure the pin
is fully down and flush with the surface of the grass’s backing so as
persons walking on the area barefoot will not stub a toe. Do not use heavy
hammer strokes otherwise you may damage the Grass fibres and put a dint into
the compacted subsoil.
Seams - Option 2. –
Adhesive Application method -
heavy trafficked areas.
It is possible to overlap and adhere the edge of the adjoining
2nd sheet onto the 60mm flap of Black backing of the 1st sheet.
-
First check that the edge of the 2nd sheet will
butt up satisfactorily over the black backing selvedge along the entire
length of the 1st sheet. There should be not more than a 3 –
4mm gap along the seam. If the gap is too big in places trim the 2nd
sheets edge if necessary (it is easiest to trim from the back of the grass
sheet by running your utility knife blade between 2 rows of tuft lines).
After trimming check again if the seam will be good and closed (not more
than a 3 –4mm gap).
-
Place a 15cm piece of masking tape across the surface of the
seam to mark the “best fit” alignment/ positioning. Cut the masking tape
with the utility knife so you can then fold back the grass sheets to apply
the required adhesive.
-
So you have a good flat surface on which to adhere the seam,
place a timber cutting board (1200 x 45 x 6mm) under the first section of
seam to be adhered.
-
Fold back the edge of the 2nd sheet by about
30cm and brush away soil and dust from the black backing. Also brush any
soil or dust off the upper surface of the black backing flap of the 1st
sheet.
-
Carefully spread Synthetic Turf Adhesive (preferred) with a
3mm notched trowel (or Contact Adhesive is a 2nd option) along
the surface of the 60mm wide black backing flap of sheet 1. , a workable
length of about 1m at a time is best. Then, following the directions of the
adhesive manufacturer as to the required “open time” of the adhesive,
progressively you can fold down and ‘lay in’ the selvedge of the 2nd
sheet into the adhesive. Leaving the timber cutting board under the freshly
glued section of the seam use the heel/ flat of your hand to firmly push the
backing of the 2nd sheet into the adhesive to get good contact.
-
After having glued the first section of the seam slide the
cutting board along to the next section and repeat the adhesion procedures.
Continue throughout the length of the seam in a similar fashion until it is
fully adhered.
-
The joined sheets will have to be left for at least 24 hours
so the adhesive can set/cure before you attempt carefully moving the joined
sheets to there final position. If the joined sheets are moved or walked on
before the adhesive is fully cured they will fail and pull apart. Just let
the adhesive take its time and fully set. Refer to adhesive manufacturers
instructions for recommended curing times.
-
Select an installation period which is forecast to for 2 dry
days.
-
Cut the grass sheets so they are the required lengths as per
your plan.
-
All the grass sheets are to run the same direction way. Use
the stick of chalk to mark the back of the sheets with directional arrows
and position numbers
-
You may
have lengthened one sheet by Cross Joining on to it a smaller second sheet
as per the adhesive application method described previously. Ensure the
adhesive has fully set before you pull / drag the joined sheet about the
area.
-
Adjoining
sheets (parallel sheets) can be joined at the seams as per the Pin-Down
method or the Adhesive Application method described previously.
-
The
LANDSCAPE grass area to be covered should have an “outwards & away” drainage
gradient eg. 10cm/ 3m from all buildings and paved areas. The grass sheets
will only allow water through to the soil sub-surface at a slow rate so
sufficient gradient to ensure storm water drainage outward/ away from
structures (house, garage or shed) or paved areas or pathways is necessary.
-
The
subsoil should be well compacted and firm as described previously.
Note: Do not lay large sharp edged gravel or stones directly beneath the
sheets as the sharp edges of coarse stone may cut/ puncture the carpet. We
recommend you use Bluestone “Crush a Dust” or a similar fine crushed gravel
/ washed sand.
-
The
LANDSCAPE grass should be installed by use of the following methods:
-
The body of the grass sheets are to
be anchored / pinned down by the application of either the galvanised Weed
Mat/ Irrigation Pins or galvanised Flat Head Nails placed in a 60cm x 60cm
grid pattern throughout the installation area.
-
Lay out and position all the grass
sheets over the compacted soil area.
Ensure you have the sheets positioned so they meet your plan.
Ensure you have all sheets with the grass fibre pile running in the same
direction.
-
Anchor (pin down) the body of the
most central sheet starting from the middle of the sheet and working out to
the sides. Ensure you smooth out and keep the grass sheet relatively taught
as you pin it down. Do not pin, fix or trim the edges of the grass sheet
yet.
-
Re-position a sheet adjoining the
first central sheet (your sheet # 2). Ensure the edges of the two sheets the
will butt together with a gap of less than 3-4mm to make a tight seam. If
you choose to Pin Down the seam, put in an anchor pin every 30cm along the
length of the seam.
Alternatively, use adhesive along the length of the seam, and then put in
anchor pins every 60cm. The adhesive will take at least 24 hours to cure so
be careful and limit movement and tension on the surface of the grass sheets
during this period.
-
With the seam between the first two
adjoining sheets completed you can proceed to anchor the body of the second
sheet working outwards from the seam.
-
Proceed with c. then d. with each
subsequent adjoining sheet of LANDSCAPE grass until the whole area is
covered.
-
The perimeter
of the Landscape Grassed area can be held in place by:
|
Pinned Down
method. |
|
Fixing to
imbedded treated pine half rounds or rectangular runners. |
|
Over-placement of garden rockery stones. |
|
Run
underneath retaining wall sleepers. |
|
Screwed /
nailed down with timber battens or aluminium trim bars. |
-
After and /or during the fixing of the perimeter excess
LANDSCAPE grass can be trimmed off.
-
Inspect the installation area to ensure all the anchoring
pins in the body area are well pushed down and not sitting proud of the
black grass sheet base. (once the sand fill is installed you will not see
the anchoring pin placements).
-
Now that the main body area and perimeter have been anchored
the LANDSCAPE grass can be sand filled with the dry washed white sand to a
depth of approximately 10mm as per the previously described procedure.
LANDSCAPE grass can be installed over solid surfaces in one of three ways:-
|
Concrete / Paving / Asphalt - all sheet seams are adhered
together, the whole body of grass is loose laid over the solid
surface, then 15mm of sand fill and perimeter fixing. (Fill big expansion
joints/cracks in the sub-surface with Ardit). |
|
Asphalt - all sheet seams are adhered together, the whole
body of grass is nailed down with flat head galvanised clouts in a
grid pattern 60 x 60cm, then 10mm of sand fill and perimeter fixing.
|
|
Concrete
/ Paving - all sheets are fully stuck down with Synthetic Grass /Turf
adhesive and then 15mm of sand fill. (Fill big expansion joints/cracks in
the sub-surface with Ardit). |
|
Cut the grass sheets so they are the required lengths as per
your plan. |
|
All grass sheets are to run the same direction way (use chalk
to mark the back of the sheets with directional arrows and position
numbers). |
|
Do not trim off the black selvedge edge on one side of the
grass sheets. |
|
Position sheets as per your plan, checking the lengths are
correct. |
|
Butt adjoining sheets together to ensure seams will be tight
with less than a 3-4mm gap. Trim the grass sheets as required so as to
achieve a tight seam. Place a 15cm piece of masking tape across the surface
of the seam to mark the “best fit” alignment / positioning. Cut the masking
tape with the utility knife so you can then fold back the grass sheets to
apply the required adhesive. |
|
Proceed to join all the grass sheets together using the same
adhesive procedures as set out previously for Seams (the adhesive is spread
onto the retained black edge of the grass sheet) and Cross Joins (using
adhesive spread on to a strip of seaming ribbon). |
|
Once all the Seams and Cross Joins have been adhered and
fully cured for 24 hours the new “total area” sheet can be positioned as per
you plan. |
|
Let the “total area” of grass relax for 40 minutes and then
smooth it out ensuring it is laying flat and has an even tension in all
directions. |
|
The grass can now be sand filled from the centre outwards to
a depth of 15mm by following the sand filled procedures as set out
previously. |
|
When the grass is sand filled the perimeter can be fixed by
any of the various methods previously described including the addition of
using either treated pine timbers or aluminium trim bars screwed or nailed
onto the concrete. |
|
Cut the grass sheets so they are the required lengths as per
your plan. |
|
All grass sheets are to run the same way (use chalk to mark
the back of the sheets with directional arrows and position numbers). |
|
Do not trim off the black selvedge edge on one side of the
grass sheet. |
|
Position sheets as per your plan, checking the lengths are
correct. |
|
Butt adjoining sheets together to ensure seams will be tight
with less than a 3-4mm gap. Trim the grass sheets as required so as to
achieve a tight seam. Place a 15cm piece of masking tape across the surface
of the seam to mark the “best fit” alignment/ positioning. Cut the masking
tape with the utility knife so you can then fold back the grass sheets to
apply the required adhesive. |
|
Proceed to join all the grass sheets together using the same
adhesive procedures as set out previously for Seams (the adhesive is spread
onto the retained black edge of the grass sheet) and Cross Joins (using
adhesive spread on to a strip of seaming ribbon). |
|
Once all the Seams and Cross Joins have been adhered and
fully cured for 24 hours the new “total area” sheet can be positioned as per
you plan. |
|
Let the “total area” of grass relax for 40 minutes and then
smooth it out ensuring it is laying flat and has an even tension in all
directions. |
|
Starting from the centre and working outwards the body of the
carpet can be anchored with flat head galvanised clouts driven into the
asphalt following a 60 x 60cm grid pattern (same as with the installation
over soil). |
|
The grass can now be sand filled from the centre outwards to
a depth of 10mm (follow the sand filled procedures as set out previously).
|
|
When the grass is sand filled the perimeter can be fixed by
any of the various methods previously described including the addition of
using either treated pine timbers or aluminium trim bars screwed or nailed
onto the asphalt. |
|
When installing grass over solid surfaces around buildings
ensure there is a built in gradient away from the structure so rain water
drains outwards. |
|
You will require sufficient Synthetic turf adhesive to cover
the whole installation area. As a guide 1lt. of adhesive will cover 3sqm.
when using a 3mm notched trowel. The roughness and porosity of the sub
surface will be a determinant on this estimate. |
|
Concrete must be more than 3 months old so it is fully cured.
|
|
The sub surface should be smooth, clean, dust / damp / oil
and grease free and may consist of cured concrete, timber sheet, fibre
cement sheet, metal, fibreglass and stone surfaces. It is recommended to
cover timber planks / slats with a fixed sheet product (ply, chipboard,
fibre cement sheet) to provide a smooth surface. Adhesive will not adhere
well to oil / grease stained concrete so such an areas may have to be
specially cleaned or roughened so the adhesive can key in. |
|
Thoroughly sweep the area at least 2 times just before
commencement to get rid of all dust and grit. |
|
All grass sheets are to run the same direction way (use chalk
to mark the back of the sheets with directional arrows and position
numbers). |
|
Trim off the black flap edges |
|
Position sheets as per your plan of the area, checking
lengths are correct. |
|
Butt adjoining sheets together to ensure seams will be tight
with less than a 3-4mm gap. Trim the grass sheets as required so as to
achieve a tight seam. Place a 15cm piece of masking tape across the surface
of the seam to mark the “best fit” alignment/ positioning. Cut the masking
tape with the utility knife so you can then fold back the grass sheets to
apply the required adhesive. |
|
Using a chalk stick mark out on the concrete the full length
of where all seams will be. |
|
Fully roll back the first central sheet to be adhered. |
|
Note: only spread adhesive for approx 1m x 1.8m at a time. If
you spread too much adhesive by the time you get to laying in the last
section of grass the adhesive may have dried out too much and not work.
|
|
Spread adhesive on the concrete for 1m forwards and across
the full width of where the first most central sheet of grass will be
positioned (this should be between the 2 marked seam chalk lines, LHS and
RHS). |
|
Roll the grass onto the adhesive, smooth the grass out so it
is in full contact with the adhesive. Use a weighted roller or ‘’bubble
board” to push the grass backing firmly down onto the adhesive.
|
|
Spread the next 1m width of adhesive as before and then roll
the next 1m of the grass sheet into the adhesive. Smooth the grass out so it
is in full contact with the adhesive. Use a weighted roller or ‘’bubble
board” to push the grass backing firmly down onto the adhesive.
|
|
Continue the same sequence until the whole sheet is laid into
the adhesive. |
|
Position the adjoining sheet (2nd. sheet) using
the pieces of masking tape alignment/ positioning pieces stuck to the face
of the grass. Check again that the two sheets will butt together without any
gaps of more than 3-4mm. |
|
Carefully roll back the second sheet. |
|
Carefully spread adhesive onto the concrete for 1m forwards
and across the whole width of the 2nd sheet (from the edge of the adhered
first sheet across the next chalk line). Immediately wipe any misplaced
adhesive off the grass fibres of the first sheet. Then roll the 2nd grass
sheet into the adhesive. While the adhesive is still moist work the second
sheet into position so the seam of the two adjoining sheets is butted
together tightly with no gaps. After you have the seam tight smooth
out and firmly push the rest of the back of the 2nd sheet into the spread
adhesive. |
|
Proceed to spread the next 1m forwards and full width of
adhesive for the second sheet and proceed as before getting the seam butted
first and then smoothing out and pushing down the grass backing into the
adhesive. |
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Proceed to complete the second sheet 1m in length at a time
until it is fully adhered to the sub-surface. |
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Continue in the same manner for all the adjoining sheets. |
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When all the sheets have been adhered and the glue has cured
for a minimum of 24 hours the grass can be sand filled to a depth of 10 –
15mm (follow the sand filled procedures as set out previously).
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When the grass is sand filled the perimeter can be trimmed
and then fixed by any of the various methods previously described including
the addition of using either treated pine timbers or aluminium trim bars
screwed or nailed (drilled and plugged) onto the solid sub-surface. |
The LANDSCAPE grass can be loose laid as a mat on smooth, rough or textured
surfaces (eg. a balcony, deck or patio area).
Check for stability (slip / slide) before leaving a mat unattended in a traffic
way.
We recommend that grass mats are held fast with outdoor grade double-sided
adhesive tape, hook and loop tabs fixed to the grass backing and sub floor,
press studs, aluminium trim bars screwed or nailed (drilled and plugged) into
the solid sub-surface or by heavy outdoor furniture or pot plants.
It is essential to fix all leading edges in door ways / passageways / walkways,
so persons will not trip on a loose / unturned edge or corner.
LANDSCAPE grass is made from UV stabilised synthetic fibres which are relatively
smooth, quiet and flexible. Very similar fibres are used in many outdoors sports
surfaces. LANDSCAPE grass is suitable for child play areas as it is a low
friction fibre.
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These fibres are pool and sea water compatible but will
require a wash with fresh hose water from time to time if installed in close
proximity to spray and run-off ( eg. dried salt crystals from evaporated
salt water pool water will accumulate on the grass fibres and attract dust
over time. Periodic hosing will wash the salt off the fibres ).
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Use a rake, broom or outdoor Vac / Blower to remove leaves,
twigs and seeds. |
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With spills gently scrape / blot up the surface excess.
Sponge spills / soiling with a mild neutral detergent and then rinse with
fresh water. Blot oil and grease with solvent like White Spirit. Rinse off
thoroughly with fresh water all spilt solvents, petrol, strong chlorine,
acids and alkalis. If in doubt test a cleaning treatment on a sample piece
of the carpet first . |
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Weeds taking root in the sand fill can be killed with
correctly mixed and applied water soluble products such as “Roundup” style
weed killers. Do not over saturate. |
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Tears or burns in the carpet surface can be repaired by
patching. |
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Fresh washed white sand can be put into LANDSCAPE grass to
replenish quantities that are blown, washed or tracked away |
Caution: The grass like surface can become slippery if completely saturated with
water or surface puddling occurs (sufficient drainage gradients are necessary) .
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Your scaled plan of the installation area. |
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1.8m
wide grid overlay to the same scale of the plan of the installation area
representing the sheets of Landscape Grass. |
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Landscape Grass 1.8m wide
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Area width |
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Area length |
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Total area sqm. |
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Total area sqm. divided by1.8m = approx. Lineal metres of
Landscape Grass. |
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Sticks of white chalk |
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Synthetic Turf adhesive 4lt. pail / tin ( or Contact
adhesive 1lt. pail/ tin ) |
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Adhesive trowel with 3mm notches |
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Woven Black Weed control matting |
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Weed Mat/ Irrigation Pins galvanised (150mm or 200mm long) |
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Flat Head nails galvanised (150mm long) |
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Crush a Dust (a compacting fine gravel/ stone)
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Washed White Sand fill – dry (note: wet sand will not broom
in to the grass) |
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Treated timber pine Half Rounds or Rectangular 90 x 45cm
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Garden rockery stones |
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Looped wire garden border fencing |
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Timber sleepers for a retaining wall
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Other Notes: |
The carpet surface can become slippery
if completely saturated with
water or surface puddling occurs. Ensure the
area has sufficient
drainage gradients.
Ensure carpet does not slip or slide
under traffic - fix as necessary for
safe use.
Remember the old adage -
"Measure twice - cut once"
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